Tourists walking through Injeongmun Gate, the main entrance of Changdeokgung Palace in Seoul, showcasing traditional Joseon Dynasty architecture with an ornate roof and carvings.

Stepping Back in Time: A Palace and Hanok Village Adventure

By | | EAST ASIA, SOLO TRAVEL, SOUTH KOREA, TRAVEL

✧ Series Note – South Korea Trip 2023 ✧
First time in South Korea. Solo. Unscripted. Raw. Real.
A short, cold trip filled with long walks, warm meals, and unforgettable moments.
📅 Dec 1–5, 2023

🛤 A Change of Plans (and a Missing Key)

Day two began with grand intentions: a DIY trip to Nami Island, Petite France, the Italian Village, and the Garden of Morning Calm.

But travel has a way of rewriting plans.

After a smooth journey from Seoul Station, I arrived at Cheongnyangni Station—and promptly got lost. Twice. Wrong train. Wrong direction.

Collage of autumn views along Namsan Trail in Seoul, showing forest paths with red and orange foliage, wooden fences with signs, and a traditional Korean building nestled among trees.
Namsan Trail weaves together Seoul’s autumn magic—fiery leaves, quiet paths, and hidden heritage sites that turn a simple walk into a layered journey through nature and culture.

Then came the real problem: I had left my locker key at the guesthouse… with my laptop locked inside. So I backtracked.

Thankfully, the key was right where I left it. So was my laptop. But by then, it was already 10 AM—and I hadn’t even had breakfast. Not even coffee. Just lukewarm tea. Lesson learned.

🍁 Namsan Park: A Slow Start to Reset the Day

With Nami Island no longer an option, I shifted to Plan B—heading toward Namsan Park and N Seoul Tower.

The walk led me through quiet, steep streets that felt straight out of a K-drama. At the top, I was greeted by a road lined with golden and crimson trees—autumn’s final bow before winter.

Visitors walking along an autumn forest path near N-Seoul Tower in Seoul, surrounded by red and orange leaves and lantern-lit streetlamps.
Just below N-Seoul Tower, the forest path glows with autumn’s fire — lanterns guiding each step as the city’s landmark watches quietly above.

I paused. Breathed. And slowly let go of the stress from earlier. I wandered for a while but couldn’t quite find the exact trail to the tower. So instead of forcing it, I chose to rest—and save it for later.

Maybe it was meant to be seen at night.

🏯 Namsangol Hanok Village: A Glimpse of the Past

Instead of the tower, I stumbled upon Namsangol Hanok Village—and it felt like stepping into another era. This cultural village offers a glimpse into life during the Joseon Dynasty, with beautifully preserved traditional houses known as hanoks.

Entrance area of Seoul Namsan Gugakdang with a traditional Korean building, tiled roof, and leafless trees in late autumn.
At Namsan Gugakdang, tradition finds its stage—a quiet courtyard where Korea’s music and heritage echo beneath tiled roofs and changing skies.

Even though the Cheonghakji Pond was dry for the season, the atmosphere remained peaceful and reflective. Best part? Admission is free. From there, I walked to Chungmuro Station and finally treated myself to a warm cup of coffee at Starbucks. Cold air, warm hands—perfect balance.

Collage of hanok-style buildings at Namsangol Hanok Village in Seoul, with tiled roofs, wooden beams, stone walls, and colorful lanterns set against modern city buildings.
At Namsangol Hanok Village, Seoul’s past and present meet—lanterns brighten tiled roofs while skyscrapers rise beyond stone walls, weaving heritage into the city’s rhythm.

👑 Changdeokgung Palace: Quiet Grandeur

My next stop was Changdeokgung Palace, one of Seoul’s most treasured historical sites.

Built in 1405, this UNESCO World Heritage Site served as a royal residence for many kings of the Joseon Dynasty. Compared to other palaces, it felt quieter—more intimate, almost contemplative.

Tourists walking through Injeongmun Gate, the main entrance of Changdeokgung Palace in Seoul, showcasing traditional Joseon Dynasty architecture with an ornate roof and carvings.
Today’s palace tour is of Changdeokgung Palace.

Before entering, I grabbed a ₩2,000 gyeran ppang (Korean egg bread) from a friendly street vendor—warm, soft, and comforting.

Close-up of steaming gyeran-ppang, Korean egg bread pastries, freshly baked and served hot by a street vendor in Seoul.
Golden gyeran-ppang rises with steam on a Seoul street corner — a humble egg bread that warms hands and hearts through the city’s seasons.

Inside, the palace revealed:

  • Intricate architectural details
  • Vibrant painted eaves
  • Layers of history in every courtyard
Collage of traditional Korean palace buildings at Changdeokgung Palace in Seoul, featuring ornate tiled roofs, wooden carvings, lattice windows, and visitors in traditional attire.
Changdeokgung’s courtyards echo with history—Bo Hwa Dang and its sister halls stand proud, their painted eaves and stone platforms welcoming visitors into Seoul’s royal past.

One highlight was the Nakseonjae Compound, built in 1847 by King Heonjong for his concubine. It felt more personal than grand—like a quiet story hidden within palace walls.

🎶 A Hidden Gem: Seoul Museum of Korean Folk Music

On my way out, I discovered the Seoul Museum of Korean Folk Music—a small but meaningful stop. Tucked quietly near Changdeokgung Palace, the museum offers a deeper look into Korea’s rich musical heritage.

Exterior of the Seoul Museum of Korean Folk Music with traditional tiled roof and wooden frames, set against modern high-rise buildings.
At the Seoul Museum of Korean Folk Music, wooden eaves and tiled roofs echo with centuries of sound — a cultural stage set against Seoul’s modern skyline.

The museum showcases traditional sounds that once echoed through everyday life during the Joseon Dynasty—from farmers’ work songs and village celebrations to ceremonial and court music. Through interactive exhibits and audio displays, visitors can experience how music shaped community life, storytelling, and cultural identity in Korea.

Collage of Seoul Museum of Korean Folk Music showing traditional tiled roof exterior, interactive exhibits with instruments, vintage photos, and dioramas of Korean houses.
Inside the Seoul Museum of Korean Folk Music, past and present harmonize — from wooden eaves outside to interactive exhibits within, each space carries the rhythm of Korea’s cultural story.

Inside were exhibits featuring:

  • Traditional work songs
  • Folk chants
  • Ceremonial music

Despite its modest size, the museum provides a meaningful and immersive experience—perfect for travelers looking to go beyond the usual palace visits and connect with Korea’s traditions on a deeper level.

It was unexpected… and deeply moving. A reminder that culture isn’t just seen—it’s heard and felt.

🏘 Bukchon Hanok Village: Art and Connection

From Anguk Station, I followed the signs to Bukchon Hanok Village—a place I had long wanted to visit. And it did not disappoint. With its narrow alleys, traditional homes, and sweeping city views, Bukchon felt like a living museum.

Collage of hanok houses in Bukchon Hanok Village, Seoul, with tiled roofs, wooden beams, lattice windows, and narrow alleyways lined with stone walls.
In Bukchon Hanok Village, narrow alleys wind between tiled roofs and wooden doors—a living neighborhood where Seoul’s heritage breathes alongside its modern skyline.

A small art shop called De Art caught my attention, where I met CEO Kim Young Hee. Through Google Translate, she shared how her husband’s paintings captured Bukchon across different seasons. Despite the language barrier, the warmth was unmistakable. She even gave me a mini tour of the shop.

Exterior of Gyedong Beauty Salon in Seoul with painted mural on shutter, red signage, and traditional-style cartoon interior scene.
On Gyedong’s streets, a beauty salon greets passersby with painted shutters — playful murals turning a neighborhood storefront into a slice of Seoul’s living art.

I left with no purchase—but a full heart.

🌃 N Seoul Tower at Night: Worth the Wait

As evening fell, I made my way to the Namsan Cable Car. My feet were already protesting (boots, why 😅), so I skipped the hike and opted for the round-trip cable car ride.

N Seoul Tower glowing with vibrant pink lights against the night sky, framed by silhouettes of trees and a traditional Korean pavilion.
N Seoul Tower rises in pink brilliance over Namsan’s night—a beacon where Seoul’s modern skyline meets the quiet grace of its traditional pavilions.

And it was worth it. At night, N Seoul Tower transforms into something magical. The city lights stretch endlessly, creating a skyline that feels both vast and intimate. Even without going up to the observatory, the view from the deck was unforgettable.

Collage of N Seoul Tower at night with Christmas trees, festive lights, panoramic city views, and colorful love locks attached to fences and railings.
At N Seoul Tower, winter sparkles with lights and promises—Christmas trees glow, city views stretch wide, and love locks bind stories to Seoul’s skyline.

✍️ Reflections: When Plans Fall Apart (Beautifully)

I thought the day was ruined. But I was wrong. Yes, I missed Nami Island. Yes, I forgot my key. But I gained something better:

  • Spontaneous discoveries
  • Meaningful encounters
  • A deeper connection to the journey

As I ended the day, I realized something simple: Not every travel day goes as planned—but sometimes, those are the days that stay with you the most. 💫

Stone steps on Namsan Trail in Seoul leading through a red torii gate toward N-Seoul Tower, framed by leafless trees and forest scenery.
On Namsan Trail, a red gate opens the climb—each step rising through quiet trees until Seoul’s landmark tower crowns the horizon.

*** I wrapped up 2023 with an adventure to the land of K-Pop—a journey that felt like a dream yet came with its own moments of truth. A few unexpected mishaps added some spice to the trip, but in the end, I was beyond grateful to finally tick South Korea off my travel bucket list; a place that once sparked a dream becomes the one that reminds you how far you’ve come.***

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