Gyeongbokgung Palace traditional Korean architecture with intricate green and red woodwork under a clear sky in Seoul.

My First Winter in Seoul, South Korea

✧ Series Note—South Korea Trip 2023 ✧
First time in South Korea. Solo. Unscripted. Raw. Real.
A short, cold trip filled with long walks, warm meals, and unforgettable moments.
📅 Dec 1–5, 2023

✈️ The Visa That Sparked a Dream

For weeks, I refreshed my email more than I’d like to admit. The visa application sat in my mind like a pending exam result. When it was finally approved, the anxiety dissolved instantly. I wasn’t just excited—I felt chosen.

Round-trip tickets? Booked. SIM cards? Arranged. A list of every K-Drama filming location I could find. Partly categorized. But as any solo traveler knows, the best stories start where the spreadsheet ends.

Golden sunrise at Incheon International Airport transit area with modern architectural pillars and a car in the background.
The first light in Incheon—where every solo journey truly begins.

The 4 AM Reality Check

At 4 AM, stepping into Incheon’s bright, polished halls, I felt something settle in my chest. This wasn’t a K-drama scene anymore. It was real. I had crossed borders—literally and figuratively. It’s quiet, efficient, and—as I quickly learned—a little lonely when your ATM card decides not to cooperate.

Interior view of the Incheon Airport Express Train (AREX) station featuring ticket kiosks and travelers with luggage.
For a railway enthusiast, the journey is just as important as the destination. The sleek efficiency of the Express Train station is the perfect gateway to Seoul’s energy.

I stood there, staring at a screen that refused to give me Won, until a fellow traveler stepped in. A quick “Salamat, kabayan!” and a pointed finger toward a working machine later, I was back on track. It was my first reminder: solo travel doesn’t mean you’re always alone.

🚆 AREX to Seoul: Sleepy Commutes and Sub-Zero Welcomes

I boarded the AREX (Airport Express) for the 55-minute dash to Seoul Station. I’d love to tell you about the scenery, but I slept through most of it. I was eventually nudged awake by a polite train crew member—the only other souls left on the train were me and a quiet couple.

A modern, minimalist train platform at Seoul Station featuring glass safety doors and orange signage for the Airport Express Train.
The architecture of efficiency. Standing on the platform at Seoul Station, the minimalist design reflects the organized energy of the city waiting just above ground.

Stepping out of Hoehyeon Station, the “Seoul Winter” finally hit me: -7°C. 🥶. I was officially not in Southeast Asia anymore.

🏠 Dream Guesthouse: My Cozy Base in Seoul

I settled into Dream Guesthouse, a cozy spot tucked near Namdaemun Market and Hoehyeon Station Exit 3. It had everything: free coffee, a warm common area, hot and cold showers, private lockers, an elevator to the third floor, and even laundry service, and… a dormmate who didn’t understand the concept of headphones. Hahaha!

A narrow, clean Seoul side street with mixed modern and traditional brick buildings under a cloudy sky.
The true soul of the city isn’t found on a bucket list; it’s tucked away in the quiet side streets where daily life hums along in the shadows of skyscrapers.

As I lay there on my first night, listening to the stray audio of someone else’s videos, I realized this was the “authentic” experience I wanted. It wasn’t a polished K-Drama montage; it was messy, freezing, and perfectly real.

A collage featuring a "Dream House" building exterior with an orange sign, a narrow Seoul street, and a view of local city architecture.
Finding a home base is about more than a bed; it’s about choosing which neighborhood’s rhythm you want to wake up to every morning.

🇰🇷 Best Tourist Spots for First-Timers Visiting South Korea: A Winter Soulful Guide


⛪️ Myeongdong Cathedral: A Moment of Peace

My first stop: the beautiful Myeongdong Cathedral. Just a short walk from Myeongdong Street, this Gothic-style Catholic church offered a quiet escape from the city buzz. It was serene—a place for prayer, reflection, and even a bit of fangirling, knowing it’s been a filming location for several K-Dramas.

A collage of Myeongdong Cathedral in Seoul featuring the red brick Gothic bell tower, a garden of white LED roses, and an informational plaque.
Standing tall amidst the neon-lit bustle of the city, Myeongdong Cathedral offers a moment of Gothic grace.

As I stood in its courtyard, surrounded by stained-glass windows and solemn architecture, a calming sense of reverence washed over me.

A bustling Seoul street in Myeongdong with tall autumn trees in brown foliage, modern storefronts with neon signs, and people walking by.
Even in the heart of Seoul’s busiest shopping district, nature finds a way to stand tall.

🏯 Gyeongbokgung Palace: History in Motion

From Myeongdong Station, I took subway Line 3 to Gyeongbokgung Station, then walked to Exit 5. The “classic” move here is to rent a hanbok for a free entry and a perfect Instagram shot. But at -7°C, the freezing wind dictated a different path. I traded the flowing traditional dress for heavy thermals and a KRW 3,000 entry fee.

Gyeongbokgung Palace traditional Korean architecture with intricate green and red woodwork under a clear sky in Seoul.
The architectural grandeur of Gyeongbokgung—a must-visit for anyone looking to step back into the Joseon Dynasty.

Walking through the royal residences of the Joseon Dynasty without the pressure of a “photoshoot” allowed me to actually see the intricate details of the pavilions and the way the Bukhansan Mountain looms over the palace walls like a silent guardian.

The massive, ornate wooden Gwanghwamun Gate at Gyeongbokgung Palace with visitors in traditional Hanbok walking through the entrance under a clear blue sky.
Passing through Gwanghwamun Gate feels like a literal bridge between two worlds—modern Seoul’s skyscrapers behind you and the quiet, storied halls of the Joseon Dynasty waiting just ahead.

Gyeongbokgung is one of the Five Grand Palaces built during the Joseon Dynasty. Some parts were royal residences, while others served as venues for state affairs, banquets, and rituals. Many K-dramas and films have also featured its historic grounds—no wonder it felt both majestic and familiar.

Main gate of Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul, 2023.
Even the palace gates in Seoul dress better than I do—layered roofs, painted beams, and a hanbok cameo to remind you who’s really stylish.

🗽 Gwanghwamun Square: In the Heart of History

From the palace, I walked to nearby Gwanghwamun Square, a symbolic and cultural center of Seoul. It’s also the main gate to Gyeongbokgung Palace.

Golden bronze statue of King Sejong the Great seated on a throne in Gwanghwamun Square, Seoul, under a clear blue sky.
Standing tall in the heart of Seoul, the statue of King Sejong the Great honors the visionary monarch who gifted Korea its unique alphabet, Hangul.

The square is a favorite among tourists and locals, with wide open spaces perfect for photos, cultural events, and people-watching. Its centerpiece: a towering statue of King Sejong, the creator of Hangul, Korea’s alphabet. Nearby stands Admiral Yi Sun-sin, a revered hero in Korean naval history.

And in the background? The majestic Bukhansan Mountain.

🌆 Myeongdong After Dark: Lights, Life, and Late-Night Bites

That evening, I returned to Myeongdong Street. Neon lights. Street food aromas. Skincare shops galore. The energy was infectious. The street was lit up with food stalls, fashion boutiques, skincare shops, and bright neon lights.

A brightly lit street in Seoul featuring large digital displays with Christmas themes, including a Christmas tree and a train, during nighttime.
Myeong-dong transforms into a winter wonderland every December.

The buzz was infectious. Whether you’re in the mood for shopping, people-watching, or just indulging in street food, Myeongdong never disappoints.

I grabbed a bite at Burger King (don’t judge!), freshened up at the guesthouse, and tried to settle in. Sleep didn’t come easily—one dorm mate’s video volume was a little too enthusiastic. The joys of shared spaces, right?

💤 First Night Feels: Guesthouse Life

My first night in Seoul was a mix of excitement and a bit of frustration. I couldn’t sleep right away because someone in the dorm was watching a video—volume on. That’s the guesthouse experience: a mix of shared space and new encounters. Sometimes charming, sometimes not.

A wide-angle view of Gwanghwamun Square in Seoul featuring modern glass skyscrapers, a busy street with white and orange taxis, and pedestrians under a bright, clear blue sky.
The way the bright afternoon sun glints off the glass skyscrapers reminds me that Seoul is a place where history and the future don’t just coexist—they thrive together.

*** I wrapped up 2023 with an adventure to the land of K-Pop—a journey that felt like a dream yet came with its own moments of truth. A few unexpected mishaps added some spice to the trip, but in the end, I was beyond grateful to finally tick South Korea off my travel bucket list; a place that once sparked a dream becomes the one that reminds you how far you’ve come.***

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