Kaohsiung in the Rain: A Solo Traveler’s Southern Taiwan Story

By | | EAST ASIA, SOLO TRAVEL, TAIWAN, TRAVEL

✧ Series Note – Once Again, Taiwan ✧
Feels like coming home. Feels like a chapter you’ve reopened with fresh eyes.
Here’s to solo travel, fourth times, and stories that keep unfolding. ✨🇹🇼
📅 Travel Dates: August 10–13, 2023

In August 2023, I returned to Taiwan for the fourth time—this time, as a solo traveler. I wasn’t chasing Taipei’s neon buzz or night market nostalgia. I was chasing something quieter, something new. Kaohsiung, Taiwan’s southern port city, was calling. And I answered—with a backpack, a bucket list, and a heart wide open.

A collage showing the modern architecture of Taoyuan HSR station, a train ticket to Zuoying, and passengers boarding the sleek orange and white High Speed Rail train.
From the stunning rib-like architecture of the terminal to the smooth ride south, the HSR is the heartbeat of Taiwan travel.

Why Taiwan again? It’s close—just under two hours from Manila. It’s easy to navigate. The night markets? Always a win. And there were still unchecked boxes on my Taiwan bucket list—like the Dome of Light in Kaohsiung.

A solo traveler's perspective of the tiled platform at Taoyuan Station in Taiwan, featuring black and white sneakers and the station sign.
Waiting for the train at Taoyuan Station—the starting point for many southern adventures in Taiwan.

Getting There: Red-Eye Realities and THSR Daydreams

August 9, 2023. Post-shift, I raced home for a quick shower and headed straight to the airport in a Grab. Travel tax? Paid. Bag drop? Smooth. After immigration, I grabbed some French toast and coffee (ritual), exchanged ₱2,070 to NTD, and braced for the red-eye.

✈️ Departure from Manila: 11:15 PM via AirAsia. My ideal plan was to land in Kaohsiung directly, but flight schedules had other ideas—so Taoyuan it was. Flexibility is the unofficial currency of budget travel.

Busy Zuoying HSR Station with travelers waiting under modern skylit architecture
Inside Zuoying HSR Station’s bustling terminal—skylights, digital boards, and the rhythm of travelers on the move.

Touchdown Taiwan: Hello, Nostalgia! 🌸

August 10, 2023. Hello again, Taoyuan International Airport. Being back hit me with a surreal wave—I knew this terminal like a regular. After swift immigration and baggage pickup, I retrieved my pre-booked SIM card from Unite Traveler. Bonus points for being open from 4:30 AM to 11 PM.

With three hours until the high-speed rail kicked off, I did what many red-eye warriors do: took a nap at the airport. Budget traveler rules, right?

A black and white photograph of the Kaohsiung skyline featuring the modern glass structures of the Formosa Boulevard station entrance under a cloudy sky.
The silver tones of Kaohsiung: exploring the industrial heart of Southern Taiwan on a quiet, overcast afternoon.

Bullet Train to Kaohsiung: Rain and Realizations 🚄

By 6 AM, I refueled at 7-Eleven and hopped on the Taoyuan Airport MRT. At Taoyuan HSR Station, I got a non-reserved ticket for NTD 1,290. The 7:15 AM train was smooth, the landscape soothing. I claimed an empty seat after Taichung and rode all the way to Zuoying—Kaohsiung’s terminal station—just in time for the skies to open.

☔ Arrival: 10:15 AM and a downpour like no other.

Entrance of Formosa Boulevard Station in Kaohsiung, Taiwan with glass canopy and escalator
Formosa Boulevard Station—Kaohsiung’s gateway of light and steel, welcoming travelers into the city’s vibrant rhythm.

Where I Stayed: A Budget Room with Realness Included 🏨

After arriving at Zuoying Station, I rode the Kaohsiung MRT (Red Line) straight to Formosa Boulevard. My hotel, Centre Hotel, was tucked in the Sinsing District—a stone’s throw from Exit 1 and Liuhe Night Market. Agoda helped me find this gem: NTD 580 for a clean single room, private toilet, and free Wi-Fi.

Not bad, right?

Well… mostly.

No kettle. No soundproofing. And a front desk encounter that relied heavily on Google Translate. The signage had me second-guessing if I’d walked into a different hotel altogether. Welcome to the real side of budget travel. 😅 Still, the essentials were there: toiletries, slippers, and a bottle of water that felt like a luxury after the rainy trek from the station.

The Great Harbor Bridge in Kaohsiung, Taiwan, spans the waterfront with a modern suspension design
Kaohsiung’s Great Harbor Bridge—a modern icon stretching across the city’s waterfront.

Kaohsiung’s Warm Welcome: Rain, Canceled Plans & Bentos 🌧️

I had plans. Big ones. I wanted to visit the Lotus Pond and Fu Guang Monastery. But the rain had its own script. Kaohsiung greeted me with sheets of water and grey skies.

So instead of temples and ponds, I found shelter back at Zuoying Station—where I comforted myself with a railway bento, hot 7-Eleven coffee, and the simple joy of stamping train passes like a kid on a treasure hunt.

Kaohsiung light rail tram at dusk with passengers boarding after rain in Taiwan
Kaohsiung’s light rail—sleek lines gliding through the city at dusk, carrying travelers south after the rain.

I realized: sometimes, travel isn’t about ticking bucket lists. It’s about showing up—even when the weather doesn’t. Disappointed? Yes. Defeated? Not quite. That little lunchbox of rice and chicken somehow tasted like resilience.

Change of Plans: The Rain Rewrites My Itinerary ☔

My grand plan to explore the Lotus Pond and Fu Guang Monastery was washed out by the relentless downpour. I reminded myself that even rainy days can leave bright impressions.

A split-image showing a minimalist hotel room interior at Sunnyside Hotel in Kaohsiung, featuring a white bed with wood accents and a work desk with a bright red chair.
After a long night of wandering through the rainy streets of Kaohsiung, there is nothing like coming back to a clean, quiet space. 🛌

Stained Glass & Stillness: My Encounter with the Dome of Light ✨

One of Kaohsiung’s most mesmerizing landmarks, the Dome of Light crowns the Formosa Boulevard MRT Station with a kaleidoscope of color and meaning. This breathtaking installation—the largest in the world made entirely of individual colored glass pieces—tells the story of human life through four elemental themes: water, earth, light, and fire.

A close-up split view of the Dome of Light at Formosa Boulevard Station in Kaohsiung, Taiwan, featuring vibrant stained-glass ceiling panels with intricate cosmic and elemental designs.
It’s hard to believe this is just a subway stop—I could spend an hour just looking up at the stories told in the glass.
Dome of Light at Formosa Boulevard Station in Kaohsiung, Taiwan with vibrant stained glass ceiling
Beneath Kaohsiung’s Dome of Light, travelers pause together—each color a reminder that even fleeting journeys can connect us in shared wonder.

Since its unveiling in 2018, it has captivated travelers from around the world, transforming a transit hub into a portal of art and reflection.

Taiwanese takeout bowl with shredded chicken, rice, cabbage, and mixed vegetables
Sometimes the simplest meals carry the deepest comfort — a warm bowl of rice and chicken, reminding me that solo journeys are nourished by small, shared flavors.

Missed Boats and Maybe Next Times: Gushan Pier & Cijin Island 🚢

Another plan that didn’t sail—literally. Gushan Pier, the launch point to Cijin Island, was within reach. But the rough seas and relentless rain turned my ferry dreams into foggy daydreams. I never made it across. And yet, I still want you to know about it.

Cijin Island is famous for its seafood stalls, beach scenes, and chill island vibes. I didn’t go—but I will next time. Because unfinished plans make for future adventures.

A four-panel collage showing the exterior and interior signage of Sizihwan and Formosa Boulevard Stations.
The clean lines of Sizihwan Station, Kaohsiung, turn a daily commute into an art gallery crawl. It’s a railway enthusiast’s dream come true.

For the Love of Railways: Takao Railway Museum 🚂

Despite the downpour, I wasn’t about to skip this one. As someone with a soft spot for trains, the Takao Railway Museum hit the mark. Once known as Kaohsiung Harbor Station, it’s now home to weathered locomotives and vintage sleeper cars.

Stepping inside was like traveling through Taiwan’s transportation history—with creaking floors and that faint scent of metal and nostalgia. It’s near the Shiziwan MRT and Hamasen LRT stations, nestled in the old harbor district.

A four-panel collage of the Takao Railway Museum in Kaohsiung, featuring a vintage orange locomotive, an old station entrance, railway tracks under a cloudy sky, and a modern green light rail car.
Grey skies and iron rails. 🌧️ Even with the rain, the Hamasen Museum of Taiwan Railway has this quiet, nostalgic energy.

This museum brought Taiwan’s railway history to life with old locomotives and vintage charm. It’s an easy walk from Shiziwan MRT and Hamasen LRT stations—especially if your heart beats faster at the sound of train whistles like mine does.

Dayi Pier and Pier-2 Art Center: Creativity on the Coast 🎨

Kaohsiung doesn’t just run on wheels—it pulses with creativity. At Dayi Pier near the Pier-2 Art Center, industrial warehouses have been transformed into hubs of color and inspiration. From murals to artisan coffee shops, this district is equal parts art gallery and urban playground.

A four-panel collage of Kaohsiung's waterfront featuring the white Great Harbor Bridge, outdoor sculptures, and the Artco warehouse district.
There’s a specific kind of calm at the Kaohsiung port when the sky is grey and the air is cool.

I wandered through rain-slicked paths and saw families, skaters, and photographers all soaking in the scene—umbrellas in one hand, bubble tea in the other. I took the LRT Circular Line from Dayi to Hamasen Station and felt like I’d stepped into a storyboard.

Liuhe Night Market: A Stomach-Led Pilgrimage 🍜

No storm could keep me from the night market. Liuhe Night Market is one of the oldest and most iconic food havens in the south. Located just steps from my hotel, it buzzed with life even in the drizzle.

Rainy night at Liuhe Night Market in Kaohsiung, Taiwan, showing wet asphalt reflecting colorful neon shop signs, people with umbrellas, and the Sunnyside Hotel building.
Pro-tip: Don’t let a little rain stop the food hunt. The umbrellas come out, the streets get that perfect glossy reflection, and the dumplings taste just as good.

Steam rose from grilled squid, stinky tofu wafted past smiling vendors, and fruit juice stalls shone like rainbow beacons. I tried a little of everything—because isn’t that what travel is about?

The Bittersweet Goodbye 🎒

Not everything went according to plan. But travel rarely does. The rain changed my schedule, blurred my itinerary, and forced me into slower moments. And honestly? I’m thankful for that.

Sometimes, the missed ferries and fogged-up windows offer a better story than the picture-perfect postcard moments. Kaohsiung left me soaked, yes—but also full: with memories, lessons, and longing. I’ll be back. ☕✍️🌿

*** I went to Taiwan alone from August 10–13, 2023. I visited Kaohsiung City, Taipei City, and New Taipei City. This blog was first drafted on August 10, 2023, at the Center Hotel, Sinsing District, Kaohsiung City Center. ***

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2 thoughts on “Kaohsiung in the Rain: A Solo Traveler’s Southern Taiwan Story”

  1. Pingback: Kaohsiung, Taiwan: Rhythms of the Local Train and Night Breezes – The Pen Rebel's Blog

  2. Pingback: Kaohsiung Lotus Pond: Dragon & Tiger Pagodas, Temples, and Pavilions – The Pen Rebel's Blog

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