Kaohsiung, Taiwan Solo Travel: A Rainy Season Guide to Southern Taiwan

In August 2023, I returned to Taiwan for the fourth time. This time for Kaohsiung solo travel. I wasn’t chasing Taipei’s neon buzz or night market nostalgia. I was chasing something quieter, something new. Kaohsiung, Taiwan’s southern port city, was calling. And I answered, with a backpack, a bucket list, and a heart wide open.

Why Taiwan again? It’s close. Just under two hours from Manila. It’s easy to navigate. The night markets? Always a win. And there were still unchecked boxes on my Taiwan bucket list, like the Dome of Light in Kaohsiung.

Getting There: Smooth Rides South 🚄

Post-shift, I raced home for a quick shower, booked a Grab ride, and headed to the airport. Travel tax? Paid…Bag drop? Smooth. After immigration clearance, I grabbed some French toast and my usual caramel macchiato at Starbucks, exchanged ₱2,070 for NT$, and braced for the red-eye flight (some shoestring budget travelers knew this). A few hours passed. I departed Manila at 11:15 PM via AirAsia.

I reached Taiwan-Taoyuan International Airport safely in the wee hours. After some airport errands, I retrieved my pre-booked SIM card from Unite Traveler. Bonus points for being open from 4:30 AM to 11 PM. I decided to kill time at the airport and waited for the airport MRT to open. A nap was impossible, but yeah… Pen Rebel’s life’s like that. At 6 AM, I went to the airport MRT, hopped on the All-Stop Commuter (Blue) train, which was Laojie River Station-bound, and rode it to Taoyuan HSR Station.

At Taoyuan HSR Station, I bought a high-speed non-reserved train ticket for NT$1,290, Zuoying-bound, on the 07:15 AM schedule. I claimed an empty seat after Taichung and rode all the way to Zuoying Station.

Where I Stayed: A Kaohsiung Solo Travel Budget Pick 🏨

After arriving at Zuoying Station, I rode the Kaohsiung MRT (Red Line) to Formosa Boulevard. My hotel, Centre Hotel Kaohsiung, is located in Sinsing District, a stone’s throw away from Formosa Boulevard Station, the famous Dome of Light, and Liuhe Night Market.

The entrance blends into the row of buildings on Zhongzheng 4th Road, with a modest sign that doesn’t stand out compared to the neon glow of nearby shops and the Dome of Light attraction. This made me second-guess if I’d walked into the right place. It is a budget-friendly property highly rated for its central location and convenience for solo travelers.

Rooms are basic compared to luxury hotels. I booked a single room with a private toilet. No electric kettle. No soundproofing. Still, the essentials were there: toiletries, slippers, and a bottle of water that felt like a luxury after the rainy trek from the station. I booked this hotel via Agoda for NT$580.

Kaohsiung’s Warm Welcome: Rain, Canceled Plans & Bentos 🌧️

After checking in at my hotel, I went back to Zuoying HSR Station. The plan was to take a bus there or walk to Lotus Pond or otherwise visit Fu Guang Monastery instead, but it rained heavily, forcing more people to gather inside the station.

So instead of temples and ponds, I found shelter back there, where I comforted myself and killed some time while figuring out what to do next.

Stained Glass & Stillness: My Encounter with the Dome of Light ✨

After leaving Zuoying HSR Station during a storm, I hopped on the MRT to Formosa Boulevard Station. The rain outside was relentless, but underground I found one of Kaohsiung’s most mesmerizing landmarks: the Dome of Light.

Crowning the station with a kaleidoscope of color, this breathtaking installation is the largest in the world, made entirely of individual colored glass pieces. It tells the story of human life through four elemental themes: water, earth, light, and fire.

Travelers from around the world pause here, not just to transfer trains but to stand in awe. In the hush of the station, the Dome transforms a transit hub into a portal of art and reflection. For me, it was a reminder that even in storms, there are places where stillness and beauty gather.

Missed Boats and Maybe Next Time: Gushan Pier & Cijin Island 🚢

The next thing I knew, I was already on the train bound for Sizihwan Station (FYI: this station was renamed Hamasen Station back in 2024). The plan was to go to Gushan Pier, the launch point to Cijin Island, which was within reach. But the rough seas and relentless rain turned my ferry dreams into foggy daydreams.

I never made it across. And yet, I still want you to know about it. Cijin Island is famous for its seafood stalls, beach scenes, and chill island vibes. I didn’t go—but I will next time. Because unfinished plans make for future adventures.

For the Love of Railways: Takao Railway Museum 🚂

After I exited Sizihwan Station, I saw the Takao Railway Museum office. Curious about what’s inside, I took a sneak peek, but it was closed, maybe because of the weather. So I walked to the vast field filled with weathered and retired locomotives and vintage sleeper cars.

This museum brings Taiwan’s railway history to life with old locomotives and vintage charm. As someone with a soft spot for trains, the Takao Railway Museum hit the mark.

Dayi Pier and Pier-2 Art Center: Creativity on the Coast 🎨

After leaving the Takao Railway Museum, I spotted a sleek, modern train gliding past, one of the Circular Line’s light rail trains. Its minimalist station and laid-back vibe drew me in, so I checked the route map and hopped aboard.

The ride carried me to Dayi Pier, near the Pier-2 Art Center, where industrial warehouses have been reborn as hubs of color and inspiration. Murals stretched across walls, artisan coffee shops buzzed with conversation, and rain-slicked paths shimmered under umbrellas.

Families, skaters, and photographers all soaked in the scene, with bubble tea in one hand and creativity in the other. From Dayi Pier to Hamasen Station, the journey felt like stepping into a storyboard, each stop a frame in Kaohsiung’s living gallery.

Liuhe Night Market: A Stomach-Led Pilgrimage 🍜

I stepped off the train at Formosa Boulevard Station, where the Dome of Light glowed above me, a stained-glass ceiling that still stopped me mid-step even on a second pass. Travelers paused, necks craned, as if it were a galaxy suspended just for us.

From there, the night pulled me toward Liuhe Night Market, one of Kaohsiung’s oldest food havens. Steam curled from skewers of grilled squid, the unmistakable scent of stinky tofu drifted past, and neon-lit fruit juice stalls shone like rainbow beacons. Vendors smiled, calling out in cheerful tones, their stalls brimming with flavors that told stories of southern Taiwan.

I wandered slowly and bought a fried chicken. Each bite felt like a postcard, a reminder that travel isn’t about rushing from one landmark to the next but about savoring the small, fleeting moments.

By the time I made it back to my hotel that night, rain-soaked and full, I realized the storms hadn’t ruined my trip. They’d just rewritten it. Kaohsiung, it turns out, doesn’t need clear skies to leave an impression. Sometimes the best solo travel stories are the ones you didn’t plan.

Next Destination: How to Get from Kaohsiung to Taipei by Train: My 5-Hour TRA Experience—a scenic solo railway journey through small towns, coastal views, and the heart of the island.