Chiayi, Taiwan | Day 2: The Mountain Train I’d Been Waiting Years to Ride

If you’re here for the Fenqihu to Chiayi train, how to actually get a ticket, what the ride is like, or just the story of finally catching it after years of waiting, you’re in the right place. Here’s how the whole quiet, misty morning unfolded before I boarded.

A Quiet Morning in Fenqihu

I woke up early on my second day, feeling the cool mist wrap around the sleepy town. Instead of rushing to Alishan Mountain and joining the crowd, I chose to linger. A small act of rebellion against the rush of travel. Only a few locals were awake, and the 7-Eleven was the only store open.

I wandered from the upper street down toward the railway tracks and Fenqihu Train Station, then looped back through the lower street in search of breakfast.

At 7 AM, the town felt suspended in time. A peaceful, foggy, and untouched by the usual bustle. My slow walk eventually led me back to the station. There were still no passengers, only locals enjoying their unhurried morning walks.

How I Got a “Sold Out” Fenqihu to Chiayi Train Ticket

I checked the train ticket counter and, to my delight, secured a one-way Fenqihu to Chiayi train ticket for 01:30 PM. Relief washed over me. No more winding roads or motion sickness this time, unlike the bus mishap that started my trip.

Here’s the part worth knowing if you’re planning this yourself: I had already checked online, and everything showed fully booked. I nearly gave up on the train entirely and resigned myself to another bus ride down. But showing up in person at the Fenqihu ticket counter the same morning got me a seat that the website said didn’t exist.

Breakfast at Lunchbox: Chicken Drumstick Bento in Fenqihu

Hunger nudged me toward Lunchbox again, where I finally ordered a chicken drumstick bento meal at NT$180. Seeing locals already dining made the place feel alive in that gentle Fenqihu way. It was also reassuring to notice that the restaurant, train ticketing office, and 7-Eleven accepted card payments, a reminder that even quiet mountain towns adapt and modernize.

I had hoped to try other bento stalls I saw while walking around the area, but many were still closed. So I savored the quiet instead, letting the morning ease me into the day.

Fenqihu Loco Shed & Railway Museum: A Quiet Piece of Alishan History

Only a short walk from Fenqihu Station, I found myself standing before the Fenqihu Loco Shed—a quiet, almost forgotten corner of the Alishan Forest Railway. The air smelled faintly of rain and old timber, and the tracks, worn and rusty, looked like they were holding stories from a hundred journeys before mine.

I lingered there for a while, imagining the days when locomotives paused inside this shed to rest, repair, and prepare for the steep climb to Alishan. There was something comforting about its stillness. No train whistles, no footsteps—just the soft hum of the mountains and the echo of history.

For a railway enthusiast like me, it felt like discovering a small treasure tucked gently into the heart of Fenqihu. Seeing the vintage steam and diesel locomotives resting on the tracks—retired giants that once conquered these steep forest curves—made the town’s logging history feel remarkably alive.

Watching the Alishan Forest Train arrive from Chiayi 🚂

By 11 AM, the first train from Chiayi arrived, a yellow-and-red mountain train. Passengers disembarked, browsed the stores, took photos, and enjoyed bento meals by the tracks. I checked out of my hotel and took one last walk around the town.

I may have missed visiting the Alishan Forest itself, but Fenqihu offered glimpses of its own version of that world: giant trees, thick forest, and a railway track quietly waiting for passengers.

Watching the Mountain Train Arrive from Alishan 🚂

A few minutes before my scheduled train, another train approached. This one is coming from Alishan. Its colors of blue, yellow, and white glided through the mist as it slowed to a stop. Passengers from the mountain stepped out, ending their journey as mine was about to begin.

As it slowed to a gentle stop on the adjacent track, passengers wrapped in light jackets stepped out onto the platform. Watching them stretch their legs and take in the cool air felt almost symbolic: their high-mountain journey was drawing to a close, just as mine was about to begin.

Taking the Fenqihu to Chiayi Train: A Scenic Mountain Ride 🚂

And then, finally, in that perfect moment, I boarded the mountain train I had been wanting to try for years. No winding roads. No nausea. Just the rhythmic chug of the engine, the forest stretching alongside the tracks, and mountains framing the distance.

Slowly, the train carried us down from the misty hills. After almost three hours, signs of the city began to reappear. Approaching Chiayi, I felt a quiet satisfaction: I had experienced the mountains on my terms.

Returning to Chiayi: Funtime Hostel & Wenhua Night Market

We arrived at Chiayi Station, where local trains branched off to every corner of Taiwan. For my one-night stay, I checked into Funtime Hostel—a clean, modern spot with a seamless self-check-in kiosk. I had booked a bunk in the female dormitory via Agoda for NT$720, making it a budget-friendly and hassle-free stopover.

Exhausted and starving, I wandered over to Wenhua Night Market, only to leave empty-handed. Having braces makes me notoriously picky with food when my teeth are sore! So, naturally… I gave in and ended up at McDonald’s and ordered a simple cheeseburger meal. Hahaha!

Back at the hotel, I wrapped things up and headed to bed.

Fenqihu reminded me that travel isn’t always about the destination. Sometimes it’s about patience, slowing down, and noticing the small moments like the mist on the streets, the rhythm of a passing train, and the quiet resilience of a mountain town waking up.

Even the simple act of enjoying a bento meal felt like stepping into history. This tiny town inherited its lunchbox culture from the Japanese era, when travelers on the mountain railway discovered these convenient, hearty meals.

Next Up: Chiayi, Taiwan | Day 3: Visiting Ying De University: Meteor Garden Filming Locations
—stepping onto the real-life campus of National Chung Cheng University and reliving every 2000s drama scene! 🎓✨