A close-up view of a bright red Alishan Forest Railway locomotive and its cream-and-red passenger carriages stopped at the Fenqihu Station platform under a cloudy, misty sky.

Fenqihu to Chiayi, Taiwan: The Mountain Train I’d Been Waiting for Years

In places like this, you realize travel isn’t always about collecting destinations. It’s about slowing down, breathing in the mist, and letting the world wake up around you. Fenqihu was that place for me. This blog is an installment in my Taiwan, Two, Three… (2025 Series).

📅 Travel Dates: November 14–18, 2025

A Quiet Morning in Fenqihu

I woke up early on my second day, feeling the cool mist wrap around the sleepy town. Instead of rushing to Alishan Mountain and joining the crowd, I chose to linger—a small act of rebellion against the rush of travel. Only a few locals were awake, and the 7-Eleven was the only store open.

A collage of Fenchihu Old Street in Chiayi, Taiwan, featuring narrow stone alleys, red lanterns, local food stalls, and vintage souvenir vending machines.
A serene morning view of Fenqihu.

I wandered from the upper street down toward the railway tracks and Fenqihu Train Station, then looped back through the lower street in search of breakfast.

A peaceful view of the St. Mary’s Catholic Church in Fenchihu (Fenqihu), featuring a bright red roof and white wooden walls, nestled among tall cedar trees in the Alishan mountains.
A picturesque view of the quaint church in Fenqihu.

At 7 AM, the town felt suspended in time—peaceful, foggy, and untouched by the usual bustle. My slow walk eventually led me back to the station. There were still no passengers, only locals enjoying their unhurried morning walks.

A historic wooden railway warehouse and a curved narrow-gauge track at Fenchihu Station, surrounded by the lush green mountains of Alishan, Taiwan.
Quiet moments near Fenqihu Station.

I checked the train ticket counter and, to my delight, secured a one-way train ticket back to Chiayi for 01:30 PM. Relief washed over me—no more winding roads or motion sickness this time. After seeing online that everything was fully booked, I had almost given up.

A rustic railway-themed bento shop in Fenqihu, Taiwan, designed to look like a red and white train car, with signs for local specialty lunch boxes under a clear blue sky.
Saw this bento store near Fenqihu Train Station.
Welcome to Fenqihu Train Station.

Breakfast and Small Signs of Change

Hunger nudged me toward Lunchbox, where I finally ordered a chicken bento meal. Seeing locals already dining made the place feel alive in that gentle Fenqihu way. It was also reassuring to notice that the restaurant, train ticketing office, and 7-Eleven accepted card payments—a reminder that even quiet mountain towns adapt and modernize.

A classic Fenchihu Railway Bento in a metal tin, featuring a large braised chicken leg, cabbage, bamboo shoots, and a braised egg over white rice.
The ultimate mountain comfort: Opening a warm metal tin to find a perfectly braised chicken leg and local bamboo shoots. It’s not just a meal; it’s a piece of Alishan history.

I had hoped to try other bento stalls I saw while walking around the area, but many were still closed. So I savored the quiet instead, letting the morning ease me into the day.

A black dog resting on wooden steps next to a rustic coffee shop sign that says "Get More! Coffee" in the mountain village of Fenqihu, Taiwan.
Where a dog relaxes on the steps next to a coffee shop.

Mountain Journey Memories—Fenqihu Loco Shed 🚂

Only a short walk from Fenqihu Station, I found myself standing before the Fenqihu Loco Shed—a quiet, almost forgotten corner of the Alishan Forest Railway. The air smelled faintly of rain and old timber, and the tracks, worn and rusty, looked like they were holding stories from a hundred journeys before mine.

Six square photos in a grid, showing the exterior and interior of the Fenqihu Railway Museum in Taiwan, featuring historic trains and exhibits.
A collection of moments from my trip to the Fenqihu Railway Museum in Taiwan, showcasing the historic steam engines and unique exhibits.

I lingered there for a while, imagining the days when locomotives paused inside this shed to rest, repair, and prepare for the steep climb to Alishan. There was something comforting about its stillness. No train whistles, no footsteps—just the soft hum of the mountains and the echo of history.

A hand holding a gold-colored souvenir coin in a plastic case in front of a "Taiwan Souvenir Coin" vending machine in Fenqihu, featuring train-themed designs.
Found this cool souvenir coin machine while wandering around Fenqihu! It’s a perfect little metallic piece of Alishan railway history to take home.
A side-by-side photo of two murals on a wall. The left side shows a bright red Alishan diesel locomotive (DL-31) "breaking through" the wall, and the right side shows a vintage black steam locomotive (No. 18).
Colorful murals of vintage trains in Fenqihu, reflecting the town’s rich railway history.

For a railway enthusiast like me, it felt like discovering a small treasure tucked gently into the heart of Fenqihu.

A Glimpse of the Forest, From the Train 🚂

By 11 AM, the first train from Chiayi arrived—a yellow-and-red mountain train. Passengers disembarked, browsed the stores, took photos, and enjoyed bento meals by the tracks. I checked out of my hotel and took one last walk around the town.

A collage of four photos showing the Alishan Forest Railway train at Fenqihu Station. The main photo shows the front of the red and yellow train with its lights on, while smaller photos show passengers on the platform and the train surrounded by misty green mountains.
The first train from Chiayi arrived.

I may have missed visiting the Alishan Forest itself, but Fenqihu offered glimpses of its own version of that world: giant trees, thick forest, and a railway track quietly waiting for passengers.

A photo collage of a cedar forest in Fenqihu, Taiwan. One large photo looks up at tall, sun-drenched trees against a blue sky, while smaller photos show a trail sign, a person standing on the path, and a dense grove of trees.
Took a deep breath of that fresh mountain air while wandering through the towering cedar forests in Fenqihu. The sun filtering through the canopy is pure magic! 🌲✨

A few minutes before my scheduled train, another train approached—this one coming from Alishan. Its colors of blue, yellow, and white glided through the mist as it slowed to a stop. Passengers from the mountain stepped out, ending their journey as mine was about to begin.

A four-photo collage of various Alishan Forest Railway trains at Fenqihu Station. One image features the blue DL-47 locomotive next to a classic red engine, while others show the sleek modern carriages and trains side-by-side on the tracks under a foggy sky.
A rare gathering of colors at Fenqihu Station! From the iconic red forest trains to the striking blue DL-47 diesel engine, it’s amazing to see these mountain legends lined up against the misty backdrop. 🚂💨

And then, finally, in that perfect moment, I boarded the mountain train I had been wanting to try for years. No winding roads. No nausea. Just the rhythmic chug of the engine, the forest stretching alongside the tracks, and mountains framing the distance.

A close-up view of a bright red Alishan Forest Railway locomotive and its cream-and-red passenger carriages stopped at the Fenqihu Station platform under a cloudy, misty sky.
Standing right next to these red giants, you can really feel the history of the Alishan line. The contrast between the bright red locomotive and the misty green peaks in the background is just stunning.

Slowly, the train carried us down from the misty hills. After almost three hours, signs of the city began to reappear. Approaching Chiayi, I felt a quiet satisfaction: I had experienced the mountains on my terms.

Hello again, Chiayi City!

We arrived at Chiayi Station, where local trains branched off to other parts of Taiwan. I checked into my hotel—a clean, modern place with a self-check-in kiosk—but was assigned the upper bunk, which meant climbing stairs I wasn’t exactly thrilled about.

A collage of four photos featuring Chiayi Railway Station in Taiwan. Images show the station's exterior with "Chiayi Station" in large characters, a blue and silver EMU800 commuter train at the platform, and the distinctive narrow-gauge tracks of the Alishan Forest Railway.
Back at Chiayi Station, the starting point for the mountain climb. It’s the only place where you can see the narrow-gauge Alishan tracks right next to the standard TRA lines—like the sleek EMU800 “Smiling Train” waiting at the platform.

Tired and hungry, I wandered to Wenhua Night Market but didn’t buy anything. With braces, I’ve become extra picky with food. So yes… I ended up at McDonald’s instead. Hahaha!

Back at the hotel, I wrapped things up and headed to bed.

Fenqihu reminded me that travel isn’t always about the destination. Sometimes it’s about patience, slowing down, and noticing the small moments—the mist on the streets, the rhythm of a passing train, and the quiet resilience of a mountain town waking up.

A six-photo collage of Chiayi City, Taiwan. Images include the famous Central Fountain roundabout with a baseball statue, various street food stalls selling sausages and fried snacks, busy shopping streets, and a beautiful orange sunset over city buildings.
Finishing the day in Chiayi with a walk through the city streets. Between the legendary street food stalls (the sausages are a must!) and that stunning cotton-candy sunset, it was the perfect end to the Alishan journey. 🌭🌇

Even the simple act of enjoying a bento meal felt like stepping into history. This tiny town inherited its lunchbox culture from the Japanese era, when travelers on the mountain railway discovered these convenient, hearty meals.

A six-photo selfie collage of a woman with glasses and a green jacket in various locations around Fenqihu, Taiwan. She is pictured in front of railway murals, the Fenqihu station sign, Alishan forest trains, and looking up at a canopy of tall cedar trees.
From the mist-covered platforms of Fenqihu, every moment of this journey felt like a scene from a movie. So grateful to have seen these historic trains and beautiful landscapes in person! 🚂🌲✨

In letting myself slow down, I discovered a different kind of adventure—one that honors the past as much as the present and feels just as precious as ticking off a bucket list.

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